Putting a little Alaska in a bottle – The Alaskan Brewing Story



This is the story of the Alaskan Brewing. Founded against all odds in a remote Alaska town with no roads in or out more than 25 years ago, it hasn't been an easy journey but the Alaskan Brew Crew wouldn't have it any other way.
All of the footage in the video was taken in and around Juneau, Alaska with Alaskan Brewing crew, family and friends. Learn more about Alaskan at www.AlaskanBeer.com and connect with Alaskan at Facebook.com/AlaskanBrewingCo and @AlaskanBrewing on Twitter.

Wyeast Direct Pitch Activator – The Home Brewing Smack Pack



Wyeast Activator packs are one of the most popular liquid yeast options. Learn about the Smack-Pack from brewmaster Brad. When your Wyeast smackpack is inflated, what do you do? We show you that it's almost always good to use and how you can use a sanitized pin to release the C02 from the bag and still smack that pack!

Video Transcript –
We often get questions about the Wyeast Activator Smack Packs, and since it is our best selling yeast brand, we thought this would be a good time for a tutorial and to address some of those questions.

The Wyeast Activator package is unique in it’s design in that it contains both the actual yeast culture and also an internal nutrient packet.

This internal nutrient package is what makes a Smack Pack a Smack Pack. Before using the yeast, the brewer is instructed to isolate this internal nutrient packet and rupture it to release the nutrients into the yeast slurry. This serves the purpose of kick-starting the yeast causing it to begin metabolism so it is ready to ferment your freshly prepared wort. Besides starting the yeast working, the Activator Smack Pack packaging also serves as a viability check so you know your yeast is active; when the Smack Pack swells, you can be 100% certain that the yeast is alive and healthy.

Although the Activator packs have this handy system in place for activating the yeast and visually checking the viability, they do certainly have some quirks.

The #1 question and concern we hear is that often times customers will receive their Wyeast pack and it is already partially swollen. Although it may seem as if the nutrient pack is already ruptured, this is rarely the case, and an expanded Wyeast Smack Pack is not indicative of mishandling or yeast viability issues.

This inflation really only affects a handful of yeast strains, notably American Ale 1056 and Belgian Strong Ale 1388. The expansion is due to trace levels of fermentables and residual CO2 present in the yeast slurry at the time of packaging. With temperature fluctuations and agitation, this residual CO2 can come out of solution and artificially inflate the Wyeast Activator pack.

You might wonder how to handle an already expanded pack? When a pack is expanded, it can be very difficult to locate and rupture the internal nutrient pack. There’s a trick for that. Simply take a well sanitized pin and make a small hole in the corner of the pack, and gently squeeze the air out until you can locate and burst the nutrient pack.

Now, with the nutrient pack ruptured, gently shake the Activator pack, open it, and add it to your wort.

Although it can be concerning to receive an inflated Smack Pack, just remember that expansion is quite normal for some strains and it is nothing to worry about. It is exceedingly rare that a Wyeast Smack Pack arrives dead.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-ingredients/beer-yeast View all the great products and community at Northern Brewer America's #1 Homebrew Supplier.

http://www.northernbrewer.com

All-Grain Beer Brewing – Overview



BBA T-SHIRTS ARE FOR SALE:
http://www.betterbeerauthority.com/p/better-beer-authority-t-shirts_11.html

CORRECTION: I mispronounced "wort". It rhymes with "dirt". And, "tun" rhymes with "done".

Learning how to brew beer using all-grain homebrewing methods. Kyle Klaibur, aka hophedbrewhaus, teaches me how.

http://www.youtube.com/user/hophedbrewhaus

Transcript:
"Hi. I'm James Knott and this is your Better Beer Authority. Recently, I've been learning how to homebrew. I wanted to make the jump to all-grain brewing, but wasn't exactly sure where to start. I couldn't even figure out what equipment I should buy in the first place. So, I went to visit my buddy Kyle Klaiber in Marion, Ohio to learn more about it. You may know him as Youtube user hophedbrewhaus.

This video is not an in-depth look at all-grain brewing. It is intended to give a broad overview of the process for someone who is just getting into it.

We started the day by crushing the grain with a Barley Crusher Maltmill. Kyle uses a drill instead of the crank handle that comes with it to save time. You can buy barley pre-crushed though, so this isn't a crucial step if you're looking to build your brewery on budget.

Our next step is to heat the water that we are adding the crushed barley to.

"We're getting the strike water ready for an IPA we're brewing today. Target mash temp is 148, so with my system we are going to get this 15-17 degrees above our target strike temp. Then we'll dough in."

We put the heated water in our mashtun – which is an igloo cooler that helps maintain a steady temperature for over an hour. In this case the grain for 75 minutes for our Munich IPA.

Mashing is the process of converting the starches to sugars. Some sugars are fermentable and some are not. A cooler mash of 148 F will lead to more fermentable sugars and therefore a drier beer. A higher temperature, of say 156 F, will lead to less fermentable sugars more unfermentable sugars and sweeter end product. It can be very complicated so we'll leave it there.

It's time to separate the sweet wort from the mash.

We begin by recirculating the first few quarts back into the mashtun. The first few quarts are cloudy with proteins and debris. This is called the vorlauf step.

It is now time for sparging. Kyle uses a batch sparge, which it popular amongst homebrewers. It is slightly less efficient at extracting the wort, but much faster and more convenient than fly-sparging.

It is two steps. First you drain the wort from the mash into your boil kettle. Second you add the remaining water that you need for your boil to the mashtun to rinse the remaining sugars from the barley.

Now it's time to boil our wort. We boil the hops to extract their bitterness. The longer we boil the hops, the more bitterness we extract. On the flip side, a long boil also removes the nice aromatic oils that hops provide. So, generally there will be hop additions at the beginning of the boil and the end of the boil, so that we can extract the bitterness and have some of those nice aromas in the final product.

Kyle keeps his hops vacuum sealed in a freezer. For today's Munich IPA, we are using nearly over 8 oz of hops for a beer that should come in around 100 IBUs — a hopheads dream beer.

We begin the timer for the boil when we add the first hops to the beer. We boiled this beer for 60 minutes. We then added more hops near the end of the boil.

"Alright, I'm going to add an ounce of Columbus hops for a five minute boil.

After an hour it was now time to chill the wort to yeast pitching temperatures. The goal is to cool it off as quickly as possible to prevent it from being contaminated.

We used an immersion wort chiller with a garden hose.

Once the wort was chilled to 78 degrees we drained it into our carboy. Kyle uses a strainer and funnel to pull out some of the hops and aerate the wort.

Once the wort is in the carboy, we pitch the yeast. We used dry yeast for our Munich IPA.

Finally, we put a stopper and three-piece airlock on top of the carboy. Kyle fills it with inexpensive vodka. The airlock allows CO2 to escape during fermentation, but the vodka prevents the beer from getting fermented.

And that is our overview of all-grain brewing. Now we just have to wait a couple weeks to keg it, carbonate it and then drink it. Thanks Kyle for helping us learn about all-grain brewing. Don't forget to check out Kyle's Youtube channel — hophedbrewhaus — for more great brewing information. Thanks for watching. I'm James Knott and this is your Better Beer Authority."

Brewing TV – Episode 11: Tasting Notes Minisode



[Original postdate: July 16, 2010]
We've received viewer requests that we go back and revisit some of the beers that we've brewed in past episodes now that they are ready to drink. Here are tasting notes and self-critiques on Northwood/Worth Pale Ale (Ep. 3), Jake's ESB (Ep. 5) and the experimental Tomax + Xamot (Ep. 9). Brew them and tell us what you think! View all the great products and community at Northern Brewer America's #1 Homebrew Supplier.

http://www.northernbrewer.com

Easy Home Brewing – Honey Pumpkin IPA



In this video, we explore how to make a beer with pumpkin and honey, along with malt extract. Lots of hops in this beer. The taste test is at the end of the video. Thanks Brewthirty for sending the ingredients for this great beer!

Honey Pumpkin Pale Ale By Brewthrity
Ingredients:

3.15 LBS Superstructure IPA Malt Extract

1 LB Light DME

2 – 29oz Cans of Pumpkin

2 LBS Honey

1 LB Brown Sugar

1oz Warrior Hop Pellets

1oz Simcoe Hop Pellets

1oz German Hallertau Hop Pellets

1oz UK East Kent Golding Hop Pellets

Safbrew T-58 Yeast

Whirlfloc Tablet

instructions:
Prepare a pot of water and begin to heat, once hot enough; dissolve LME, DME, Honey, Brown Sugar and 1 Can of Pumpkin. Bring to a boil and add 1 oz of Warrior Hops and set timer for 60 minutes. With 20 minutes left in boil add 1 oz of UK Kent East Goldings Hops and Whirlfloc Tab. At 10 minutes left add 1 oz German Hallertau Hops and last can of pumpkin. Chill wort and top up to 5-6 gallons (based on Hydrometer reading and desired ABV.) Reach a final temp of approximately 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Add yeast and leave for 5 days, after 5 days add 1 oz of Simcoe Hop Pellets, and wait an additional 3-5 days. Keg and/or bottle your brew.

How To Make Apple Cider – Home Brewing Using Bakers Yeast



This video shows how to make hard apple cider. All you need is apple juice and bakers yeast and you can make apple cider at home.

All you need is pure apple juice with no preservatives. This is really important as preservative may inhibit fermentation.
Yeast (bakers yeast will do ok- Brewers yeast will be much better)
Yeast nutrient Optional (However fermentation will probably be more vigorous and quicker to start)
I used 1 litre of pure apple juice and to this I poured out about 50 to 60 ml into a plastic measuring cylinder. I then dropped in a wine or beer maker's hydrometer in order to measure the density of the apple juice. The reading I got was about 1.040. Looking at a chart of potential alcohol concentration, it can be estimated that I will get about 5%ABV assuming that the juice ferments completely.
The Process:
Ensure your apple juice is warmed to at least room temperature slightly warmer is better.
(Optional) 1. Put about 1 quarter teaspoon of yeast nutrient into the apple juice and then replace the cap and shake vigorously for several minutes.
2. Put a teaspoon of yeast into the apple juice- again replace the cap and shake vigorously for several minutes to ensure yeast is well mixed with the juice.
3. Put some water into your airlock and push the airlock onto the bottle of apple juice ensuring a snug airtight fit.
Lastly…..
Place the fermentation bottle into a warm place and leave it there until all bubbling from the airlock stops can take days to weeks depending on how much you decide to make and temperature.
Sterilisation of equipment:
It is vital that all equipment used in the home brewing process is properly cleaned and sterilised. If it is not then you can spoil the fermentation and could end up ill by drinking a contaminated brew. Don't pour your sample back into the apple juice bottle as this may introduce slight contamination and spoil your cider.
If you want a higher alcohol content…
Then you can spike your apple juice with lots of sugar and you may be able to get ABV of more than 10%. Its highly doubtful you will get much more than this using baker yeast so use the proper brewers yeast if you want higher.

How To Clean a Corny Keg – Craft Brewing™



Cleanliness is next to godliness so get your bucket-o-pbw ready for some hot sudsy action in the brewery.

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Mitch



After ten incredible years as our brewmaster, we’ll be saying a bittersweet goodbye to Mitch Steele later this month. While we’re very sorry to see him leave ‪Team Stone‬, we’re extremely excited to follow him in his next venture. Thanks for a decade of amazing ‪craftbeer‬, Mitch!

Home Brewing Beer 101: Part 2 – Adding the Ingredients



Tommy from www.BrewFanatics.com takes you through the first steps of making your own beer. In this video he shows you how to properly add the ingredients to your boiling water. Once the ingredients are fully dissolved in the water we have wort, which is basically beer before it has alcohol in it. Hope you enjoy. Cheers!

Home Brewing an American Light 20 Min. Kit with Joe (Part 3)



This is the third video of a 4 part series showing you how to brew the American Light 20 minute boil kit from Midwest Supplies. This is a very easy and quick brew to make and yields a light bodied beer with a very delicate hop bite and aroma. In this video, we get our equipment sanitized, talk about the new Better Bottle, rack the beer out of the primary fermenter into the secondary fermenter, install the carboy stopper and airlock, jump through space and time, take the final gravity reading with the hydrometer, do a preliminary taste test, and talk about the next steps to finish off this batch.